Mark's Big Ride: July 15 – Good bye Grand Canyon

The North Rim of the Grand Canyon sits at about 8,200 feet. I don’t know how those guys on Everest or McKinley, K2 or even Rainier do it. I felt out of breath for almost three days and won’t mind at all moving down to lower elevations. And getting away from dirt camping and into someplace with clean sheets and furniture, well that doesn’t sound too bad either. Maybe my limit of camping is six days straight. Maybe my stamina for dirt camping would be longer if my folding chair had not collapsed under my thunderous thighs three days ago and left me sprawled like a drunken sailor in the pine needles, pinecones and gravel or my air mattress would hold a charge for longer than 78 minutes. Yes, 78 minutes, I have timed it through the night and that’s how long that it takes to let me know that one’s life is vastly improved with air between oneself and the rocks under the tent. But I’ve got no real gripes.

I started the trip on June 26 and for the first 9 days I was solo. I hooked up with my brother Matt, his lovely wife Beth and their two kids, Joshua and Chris in Las Vegas and we’ve been together since. I’ll stay with them through tomorrow, then split off for six days and rejoin them in northern New Mexico. I’m not driving an extra 800 miles to see bats at Carlsbad when I could visit Canyon de Chelly, Mesa Verde, Santa Fe and Taos!

Today was motorcycle day for the boys. I gave them a little two mile ride yesterday for a taste, and of course, being boys they were all up to ride at speed the following day. They both did well, picked up the leaning thing, really liked passing cars and generally had a smile all day long. Route 89 from Jacob Lake to Bitter Springs is a pretty good motorcycle road and has been added to my list of favorites.

First stop today was Antelope Canyon, a narrow slot canyon which seems to be the pre-eminent slot canyon for photographers. It’s located just outside of Page AZ, and $32 will buy a ride in the back of a creaking 4x4 pick-up outfitted to seat 14 passengers in the bed (it was a long bed pick-up, but still a very cozy fit for 14), through town, up a dusty, sandy & bumpy wash to the bottom of the canyon and a guided shuffle-along-there-tourista tour through the canyon. There were about 14 different tours there, so once again, obviously nobody is going here anymore because it’s too crowded. But, the National Geographic photo’s and the postcards don’t do this spot justice. And neither do my pictures. If you are in the area and you have time, do stop by, it’s really amazing!

Second stop was Wapuki National Monument and right next door the Sunset Crater National Monument. It must get really, really hot here, ‘cause you only have to pay if you go through the air-conditioned visitor center. The Rangers will cheerfully demand a part of your wallet while you are inside, but I guess that you can drive around and wander through the ruins (inhabited about 1050 AD) to your hearts content as long as you do without the AC. Not one of the bigger ruins in the area, but quite interesting and picturesque, and I’m still amazed that 2,000 people lived within walking distance of this settlement almost 1,000 years ago. The Sunset Crater – doesn’t hold a candle to Mt. St Helens or Crater Lake, but it’s just freaking amazing how steep it is. The surface appears to be all black cinders at a 45 degree incline, maybe that’s why there are no climbing signs posted everywhere!

Mileage today 287/cumulative 4472
Best thing today – Antelope Canyon, dinner at Salsa Brava and a shower!
Challenge for the day – headwinds that limited my top speed to 65 mph at times and some wicked, nasty big raindrops.

The Colorado River